connected and prepared. The easiest way is when you need to replace a faulty mixer, in this case you will roughly imagine which model you need, how long the hoses will be needed, to which supply the hot water is connected and to which cold water. Today we will talk about how to install a faucet on a washbasin.
If the faucet was already on the washbasin, and it was convenient, such models should be considered, but special attention professional plumber should be paid to quality and maintainability. Expensive models will be more reliable, but in the event of a breakdown, consumables in the form of crane boxes, cartridges, aerators can be very expensive, and they can not always be found in stores. Preference should be given to high-quality mixersand cranes of the most common brands, having previously checked with the consultant whether spare parts are available for repair, and in what range the prices are. Note the length and height of the spout, sometimes referred to as the gander. It must be selected so that water does not splash out of the sink. The tall gander will allow you to draw water into pots and buckets if necessary. There are taps and mixers of a special design, which can not be mounted on every washbasin, this point needs to be clarified before buying.
First of all, shut off the water. In some cases, shut-off valves can be located under the washbasin, while the taps are installed separately on the hot and cold water inlets. If there are no taps under the washbasin, turn off the main tap. Using an adjustable wrench or open-end wrench, unscrew the union nuts of the flexible hoses from the professional plumber hot and cold water inlets, having previously installed a container for draining the water or spread a rag.
Most often, the taps are fixed to the washbasin using a pressure plate fitted over threaded rods with nuts. These nuts must be unscrewed and the gasket plate removed. The tap with flexible hoses can then be easily removed. If the union nuts of the professional plumber flexible hoses do not fit into the hole on the washbasin, the connections can be unscrewed from the faucet base by lifting it slightly above the washbasin.
The faucet is often supplied with flexible hoses for connecting to the water supply. The quality of such complete hoses is poor, and often they are too short. Purchase flexible hoses of the correct length if needed.In order not to damage the tap during installation, it can be wrapped with electrical tape.
Screw the flexible hoses into the base of the faucet, be careful not to overtighten the nuts, professional plumber otherwise the gaskets may be damaged. There should be a recess for the gasket at the base of the valve, install it in place. Screw in the threaded rods. Wash the sink thoroughly and wipe dry. Pull the hoses through the hole in the sink, put the pressure plate with the gasket on the studs from below, and then screw the nuts onto them. Tighten the nuts evenly to secure the faucet to the washbasin.
Screw the union nuts of the hoses onto the hot and cold water inlets, controlling the force and taking care not to push the gaskets.Open the shut-off valve on the water supply, immediately check the tightness of all connections. This can be done with napkins or toilet paper so that water droplets will be clearly visible on them.
If everything is in order, you can use the tap.
It is advisable to decide on the place of installation of the water heater even before buying it, so you are guaranteed not to go wrong with the dimensions. Different water heaters may differ not only in size and shape, but also in the method of installation, some need to be hung vertically on the wall, others horizontally, and others are generally installed on the floor. Due to the large weight of the boiler, it is better to hang it on a load-bearing wall or a sufficiently strong wall. The installation site must be able to supply pipes and electrical cables . If the boiler will feed several points with hot water, you need to decide which one you will use more often, the boiler should be located as close to it as possible. For long distances, you will have to drain cold water for a long time until warm water flows from the tap, and this is not economical.
The boiler is mounted on the wall using special fasteners, most often hooks, and in order to be able to put the mounting plate on them, there must be a small gap between the boiler and the ceiling. Most often it is recommended to leave a gap of about 10-15 cm.
Determine where the center line of your tank will pass, at this point, using a level or plumb line, draw a vertical line.
Select the desired distance from the ceiling, use a level to draw a horizontal line or mark with a pencil or chalk. From the baseline, move down the distance at which the mounting plate of the boiler is located from its top wall. Draw a horizontal line through this point so that it intersects the centerline. From the intersection point on both sides, set aside professional plumber half the distance between the holes in the mounting plate, put marks. These will be the points at which you need to drill holes for the dowels. Fasteners must be included with the water heater.
Drill holes of the appropriate diameter and depth, drive in dowels into them , and then screw in the fasteners. Hang the boiler on hooks, at this stage it is advisable to work together. An adjusting screw can be located on the back wall of the boiler, which will help to increase or decrease the gap between the tank and the wall.
It will be much easier to mount the boiler if its packaging has markings that are a template for drilling holes, sometimes such a template is inside the box.